Tacos Task Force:LA's best Baja Fish Taco!!

The Taco Task Force was first and foremost assembled in the spirit of adventure and fun. I talked with several blogger friends that I thought would engender a broad range of experiences. Cathy Danh, Josh Lurie, Javier Cabral, Matthew Kang, and myself would take on the LA taco scene to give another perspective on “tacoing” in Los Angeles.

The very popular taco blogs had already turned on foodies and bloggers alike to the local taco trucks, stands, and taquerias. I had gone to many of these places in recent years to find out that they weren’t very good, nor did many resemble what I’d encountered traveling throughout Mexico. There was a complete lack of criteria, baseline, or understanding of what makes a great taco. It was more or less, ” I like this place, the tacos are good, I give it 3.5 tacos(stars)”, with no explanation why it deserved the score. The result was a comprehensive list of mediocre to bad tacos.
There are solid regional and authentic tacos in LA, and there are also taco places that make tacos unique to Los Angeles, the result of Mexican-American cultures coming together.

The main reason tacos tend to be inferior in the US is the lack of ingredients, inadequate sources of proteins, and most importantly the lack of skilled taqueros (tacoers). Skilled taqueros don’t immigrate to the US, they are more employable in Mexico where stand owners hire these taco professionals. The taco trucks in LA( there are hardly any trucks in Mexico at all) are run by people who know how to make tacos, but usually they come from another line of work. They lack knife skills, don’t know how to select quality ingredients, don’t know cuts of meat, have only basic salsa making skills, lack creativity, and don’t have specialist skills like proper cooking on a vertical spit.They are also handcuffed by Angelinos' demands for the $1 taco,making Costco,Smart 'N Final, and other relatively inexpensive sources the supplier of taco ingredients.

Using the fish tacos at world famous El Fenix in Ensenada as a basline, which we all had the pleasure of trying, we raced across town one Sunday to sample fish tacos at five different locations in Los Angeles: Tacos Baja(East LA), Tacos El Nazo(), Senor Fish(Eagle Rock), Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada(Silver Lake), and newcomer, Ricky’s Fish Tacos(Silver Lake).

The Baja fish taco was born out of tempura technique brought by Japanese fisherman, battered fish with tailored salsas, a special cream made with mayonnaise and milk, fresh cabbage, pico de gallo, and a corn tortilla. Salsas vary, pure mayo can be used instead of the Baja style crema, and pickled cabbage is sometimes used as an alternative to fresh cabbage. These are the standard dressings. In Baja, your lard fried fish is handed to you on a warm tortilla, and you finish the job yourself.
Our judging criteria that day would be the quality of fish, authenticity, condiments, flavor, and cooking technique. The system needs a little work, but at the end of the day, or days, our results were unanimous in ranking the five locations. In that sense, the scoring worked out.

We carefully chose fish of the most popular and well known Baja fish taco places in town and ranked them as the best five Baja fish tacos in LA.

The Results
Our second stop of the day, coming in at number 5.
Taco Nazo


Taco Nazo is a local chain founded by Tony and Telma Garcia in 1978. It is well liked by many in the foodies communities and was largely selected based on its reputation on the various discussion boards.

I don’t know if this place used to be very good, or if it has remained as such all along, but this was truly a disappointing experience. For all of El Taconazo's bravado, he's suffers from performance anxiety


Despite the Hussong's cantina sticker in the background,Taco Nazo's signature item only has a base appearance of a Baja fish taco.


The condiment bar was not fresh or well kept, and the plated taco that we received had no lively vegetables to complement the fish. The chiles gueros were curiously over seasoned with pepper, not the usual pico de gallo overwhelming the elegant flavor of the blond chile.

From FoodGps(TTF scorekeeper) B=Bill(me),C=Cathy,J=Javier,JSH=Josh
Grade of Key Ingredient:JSH 1.5, C 2.5, J 2.5, B 2.5 AVERAGE 2.25/5
Condiment:JSH 1.5, C 2.5, J 2.5, B 2 AVERAGE 2.125/5
Authenticity:JSH 2.5, C 2, J 2, B 2.5 AVERAGE 2.25/5
Overall Flavor:JSH 1.5, C 3.5, J 2.5, B 1.5 AVERAGE = 2.25/5
Cooking:JSH 1.5, C 2.5, J 2, B 2 AVERAGE 2/5

OVERALL FISH TACO SCORE: 2.175/5



The flavor of this pollack was non-existent, indistinguishable from the shrimp. We actually had to take them apart to see which was which. The texture was strange, not the familiar crispy outside and tender inside.The pre-made taco was also shrouded by a mound of lackluster toppings, perhaps by design?

The 3rd stop we made together that afternoon, and number 4 on our list.
Senor Fish



Another place that I gather used to be better has a winning concept. A cartoonish mascot, and an attractive ready for franchising kind of motif have made this place a destination for years, along with their California themed menu. Lots of grilled tacos,seafood burritos, and quesadillas.


The salsa bar was very strong, with many simple but well kept items.Somebody takes good care of this station.


Where this taco lost me was in the batter,which was lacking the Baja flavor and texture.It was mushy and bland, not a proper package for an otherwise nice tasting cod.

Grade of Key Ingredient:JSH 3.5 C 4, J 3.5, B 3 AVERAGE 3.5/5
Condiment:JSH 4, C 4, J 4.5, B 4 AVERAGE 4.125/5
Authenticity:JSH 2.5, C 2, J 2, B 2 AVERAGE 2.125/5
Overall Flavor:JSH 3.5, C 3, B 2, J 3 AVERAGE 2.875/5
Cooking:JSH 3, C 2.5, B 2.5, J 3 AVERAGE 2.75/5

OVERALL FISH TACO SCORE: 3.075/5

Our last stop on our Sunday run due to the no show by Ricky's Fish Tacos, and number 3 on our countdown:
Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada

Of all the stops we made together, and apart, BFTIE brings the most authentic Baja sensation upon delivery. A warm tortilla wrapped around crispy fried fish is handed to you to do as you will.Could this be the real deal?


I eagerly walked to the salsa bar, which is a very La Salsa, salsa bar.I mean, just put the stuff on a counter, but, alright.The salsas? Mango was everywhere except on one of the salsas. This adulterating component is more Cabo than Ensenada.Not to mention the salsas themselves were watery and lacking in balance. Old 'n runny tomato sauce with mango, dude.The housemade crema from the dispenser was just fine, though.


The fish is stand alone good, loaded with flavor, and the cooking station made me feel like I was at a taqueria near la quinta in Ensenada.

The tortilla was hard, though, which was just fine for miss Cathy Danh, but it was a distraction to the overall taco.

With a salsa bar makeover, Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada could really up its game. Think dried chile or roasted chile based salsas and perhaps a nice pico de gallo, oh, and a more pliable tortilla.

Grade of Key Ingredient:JSH 4.5, J 4.5, C 3.5, B 3.5 AVERAGE 4/5
Condiment:JSH 3.5 B 2.5, C 3.5, J 4 AVERAGE 3.375/5
Authenticity:JSH 2.5 J 2.5, B 3.5, C 3.5 AVERAGE 3/5
Overall Flavor:JSH 4, C 3, J 4, B 3.5 AVERAGE 3.875
Cooking:JSH 3.5, C 3, J 3, B 3 AVERAGE 3.125/5

OVERALL FISH TACO SCORE: 3.475/5

Our first stop of the day for the christening of the Taco Task Force, was the still relevant, Tacos Baja, formerly known as Tacos Baja Ensenada.Monday through Friday this is the best fish taco in town and number 2 Baja fish taco on our hitlist.

Tacos Baja


Tacos Baja has been a favorite of mine for years, ever since moving to LA and reading about them in the various articles praising the virtues of its fish tacos. I hadn't been in while since I'd been down to Ensenada so many times this past year enjoying the genuine articles.It was great to know they still got it.


Their popular condiment bar showcases those delicious chiles gueros, properly dusted with pico de gallo(seasoned chile salt)after roasting and doused with lime.These special items are the mark of a great taco joint, you should get something on the house that is part of the folklore.


The catfish taco comes fully dressed, not in the Baja tradition, but all the components are solid. The fish is tasty and the batter nicely seasoned. The texture is as it should be, crispy light batter around a flaky fish.

I would love to see Tacos Baja create a couple of other salsas and expand upon their condiments,but the Taco Task Force unanimously agreed this was the best taco on our run that fine Los Angeles Sunday afternoon.

Grade of Key Ingredient:JSH 4, B 4, J 3.5, C 3.5 AVERAGE 3.75/5
Condiment:JSH 2.5, B, 2.5, J 3, C 4 AVERAGE 3/5
Authenticity:JSH 3.5, B 3.5, J 2.5, C 2 AVERAGE 2.875/5
Overall Flavor:JSH 3, B 3.5, J 3.5, C 4 AVERAGE 3.5/5
Cooking:JSH 4.5, B, 4, J 4.5, C, 4.5 AVERAGE 4.375/5

OVERALL FISH TACO SCORE: 3.5/5

Well, our master plan was foiled that day, Ricky was away.Thanks to some twitter stalking by the other members of the Taco Task Force, including the entreaties of Cathy Danh to please come out and taco, we finally all were able to taste the number 1 Baja fish taco north of the border.

Ricky's Fish Tacos


Ricky Pina has altered the Baja fish taco universe in LA, ever since he showed up with his little cart and rainbow umbrella.

I initially heard about him on chowhound and questioned why someone from Ensenada would serve up a fully dressed fish taco, and not let the customer plate.But, I was definitely with Scooby Doo-like curiosity to get out there and try them myself.


Ricky uses a quality basa(genetically a catfish but from Vietnam)that looks as fresh as it tastes. These tacos are made to order, something that doesn't even happen all the time in Ensenada.


The pico de gallo is vibrant, the mustard accented batter is made from imported Mexican wheat flour,the cabbage is fresh and razor thin, and the homemade crema is a veritable blend of mayo and 1% milk.


The fish are dipped in batter, fried in the good stuff, and carefully assembled by the master taquero. Ricky's reasoning for plating the tacos is to maintain the hygiene of his little stand. He would have more items if he had space, but what he carries is stellar. These are delicious fish tacos, and despite not being made from dogfish or angel fish as they are in Baja, you really don't miss a thing. His frying technique and the perfect consistency of the batter deliver satisfaction.

The one thing missing from every other place we went was balance. All elements were present here to produce a choice fish taco.

Grade of Key Ingredient:JSH 4, J 5, C 4.5, B 3.5 AVERAGE 4.25/5
Condiment:JSH 4.5 B 4, C 4.5, J 4.5 AVERAGE 4.375/5
Authenticity:JSH 3.5 J 5, B 4, C 4 AVERAGE 4.125/5
Overall Flavor:JSH 4, C 4.5, J 5, B 4 AVERAGE 4.625/5
Cooking:JSH 4.5, C 4.5, J 5, B 4.5 AVERAGE 4.625/5

OVERALL FISH TACO SCORE: 4.4/5

We are still refining our scoring system, but our group was unanimous in ranking and there was no scoring consultations. I don't think Best Fish Tacos was that close to Tacos Baja, but this is a work in progess.

Having trekked through LA in search of the best, I conclude that I have no reason to go back to Taco Nazo, Senor Fish, nor Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada.The only unpleasant experience was Taco Nazo, but they did have beer as a consolation.

Tacos Baja is still a great place to go during the week, but weekends are made for Ricky's Fish Tacos, the best Baja fish tacos in town by a knockout.


Ricky's Fish Tacos


Tacos Baja
5385 Whittier Boulevard,
Los Angeles, CA
(323) 887-1980‎

Best Fish Tacos in Ensenada
1650 Hillhurst Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 466-5552


Senor Fish
Eagle Rock
4803 Eagle Rock Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90041
(323) 257-7167


Taco Nazo
9516 Garvey Ave
South El Monte
CA 91733

Best Cigar Lounges: Buena Vista Cigar Club, Beverly Hills

The Buena Vista Cigar Club has been a favorite of mine for many years, ever since a friend invited me out for a get together some time ago. It's no stodgy Beverly Hills cigar club for members only, nor frequented by an upscale clientele. It's a place for a good smoke with some rum or scotch in one of the last places around that you can live so marvelously reckless. It's a place to talk politics and sports, or to unwind with friends.


Rigo Hernandez, a Cuban expat, was born into cigar smoking. He started as a lad in Havana and has worked in the business up until he opened the Buena Vista Cigar Club in 2000.This "King of Cigars" is a sports fanatic, and eventhough I don't follow sports, I always find a reason to listen to Rigo's post-game analysis.Cuba you say?Always a spirited groaning session or discourse about the future of his native country.Besides Rigo, there always seems to be interesting people in the club. A British investment banker in a bowtie talking about parliamentary procedure, a personal chef and her clueless date, and the occasional character actor. One night Seymour Cassel was behind the bar helping Rigo with some drinks.


Rigo is a one man show, bartender, tobaccanist, and host. He can't have any employees under the Dracconian tobacco laws, only a sole proprietor can serve drinks in a smoking environment. The license to smoke and drink indoors has been grandfathered into Rigo's club, where the majority of lounges in LA are for smoking only.That's only half the fun.


And, smoking a fine cigar without a single malt, aged rum, champagne cognac, or an anejo tequila is like Van Halen without David Lee Roth.


The cigar selection has all the usual offerings, your Paratagas, Romeo y Julietas, and Montecristos.


The room itself is a period bar, from a time when men hunted, told tall tales, and smoked cigars. The kind of place Ernest Hemingway would call home.


Despite the taxidermied mallards and Old World maps on the wall, the Buena Vista Cigar Lounge is couple friendly too.Perhaps it's the drink that makes it more inviting than your typical cigar lounge.I think it's the vibe. This isn't your beer belly, scraggly beard and insults crowd nor is it the manicured Hollywood gathering. The Buena Vista Cigar Lounge is for anyone who likes a nice spirit,isn't afraid to talk to their neighbor, and can afford the time to comtemplate a fine cigar among great friends.Cheers, to the King of Cigars, Rigo Hernandez.

Buena Vista Cigar Club
9715 S. Santa Monica Bl.
Beverly Hills, CA
310-273-8100

Happy Hour: Wolfgang's Steakhouse, Guys and Dolls

Wolfgang's Steakhouse is a finely polished vision of the classic American Steakhouse, refreshing at a time when some are trying to update the archetype.It's a place for thick quality steaks, jumbo shrimp cocktails, cesar salads the way they're supposed to be, and hearty sides. Order a nice bottle of wine for you and your best girl, or send some cocktails to the dolls at the bar from your Rat Pack.Valet your Porsche with a devil may care attitude.

I was invited to a blogger event last month to taste Wolfgang's Steakhouse's new Happy Hour drink and nosh menu.

They are offering a happy hour menu from 4-7 pm M-F with $7 cocktails, $7 wines, $5 beers. $7 select appetizers are also available all night long.



As I eyed the lovely Grand Cru Classes on display and glanced at the art in the hallway, a song came into my consciousness.

From Guys and Dolls

When you see a sport and his cash has run short
Make a bet that he's banking it with some doll.
When a guy wears tails with the front gleaming white
Who the hell do you think he's tickling pink on Saturday night?
When a lazy slob takes a goody steady job,
And he smells from vitalis and barbasol.
Call it dumb, call it clever
Ah, but you can get odds forever
That the guy's only doing it for some doll
Some doll, some doll
The guy's only doing it for some doll!

And, I have a gorgeous Brazilian doll who absolutely adores Wolfgang's Steakhouse, so do her hot friends.Simply because it's a beautiful room with timeless elegance.

Don't overthink this place, it's not trying to reinvent the wheel, it's just oldschool service and panache.


The Absolut Oyster Shooter, along with the rest of the new cocktails are big,bold,and straight forward.This cocktail contains a fresh blue point oyster, Absolut Vodka, horseradish and cocktail sauce.This isn't your center of mixology, but a place to have a drink. This is Happy Hour Beverly Hills style.

I also had the spicy "Sunset", It’s made with Don Julio Blanco, orange juice,a touch of grenadine, and a belt of jalapeno.


Happy Hour is a chance to sample Wolfgang's marquis item, steak. You may have to stay for dinner.


The tuna tartar was a hot item at our event, I was able to get my hands on several of these, missed the sliders though. Too busy drinking and chatting up the lovely ladies of the blog universe, what you're supposed to be doing at Happy Hour.

Wolfgang's Steakhouse puts a smile on my wifes pretty face and an extra swivel in her hips, and those hips don't lie. It's love American Steakhouse style. The new Happy Hour at Wolfgang's Steakhouse, for Guys and Dolls.

What's new for the holidays?
Gift Cards
Just in time for holiday shopping, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse is offering a wonderful gift option to patrons. Guests that purchase a gift card of $250 or more will receive a complimentary $50 gift card to thank them for their continued support of the Beverly Hills location.

This offer will end on December 31st, at closing and is exclusive to the Beverly Hills location
New Year's Eve
To celebrate the New Year the Della Robbia Room is opening allowing guests to relax in the lounge and dance to a DJ who will be spinning into the wee hours of the night.

The lounge menu will include items from the Happy Hour menu which have recently created quite a buzz, including: Tuna Tartar, Steak and Lobster Sliders, and Oysters on the Half Shell. The Antioxidant, Birthday Cake, Park Avenue, Socialite, and Wolfgang’s Spice cocktails will be available to compliment traditional bar options. The New Year will be rung in twice during the evening once at midnight Eastern Time, and then again at midnight Pacific Time; complimentary champagne will be passed in celebration of the East Coast and West Coast New Year’s and early attendees will receive a New Year’s gift.

Wolfgang's Steakhouse
445 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210-4819
(310) 385-0640

Cemitas y Clayudas Pal Cabron:Girls, Girls, Girls!!

If you've ever watched variety shows, gossip shows,talk shows, or sketch comedy on Mexican television before, Cemitas y Clayudas Pal Cabron will put a grin on your face. The menu oozes of Mexican pop culture symbols and comedic representations of the curvaceous latinas from El Gordo y La Flaca, Escandalo TV, Sabado Gigante, Siempre en Domingo, or the catwalk of Muevete.

Pal Cabron specializes in cemitas, the distinguished sandwich from the state of Puebla,and clayudas, the pizzaesque, thin, crispy tortilla covered with various toppings, a typical food of Oaxaca.

The restaurant has more than two dozen cemitas, the most classic being the cemita de milanesa(breaded chicken), known as La Tetanic.


The buxom caricature of La Tetanic on Pal Cabron's wall is a likeness of the real Tetanic, Roxanna Martinez,the bodylicious blonde in this video from La Hora Pico.All her components:pounded thin milanesa,house baked bread, firm avocado, Oaxacan string cheese bikini, perky papalo, and sensual,smoky chipotle.

Other cemitas include La cachonda(nasty girl), the kind of girl you don't take home to meet "la abuela", made with pickled leg of steer,and La Tuya(yo' momma), served any way you like.


I attended the opening of Cemitas y Clayudas owned by young entrepreneurs,siblings Bricia and Fernando Lopez, heirs the Guelaguetza restaurant empire, and proud Oaxaquenos.On that evening we got to try every cemita on their menu, and some savory clayudas.This was a blogger event. I had just met Bricia a short time before, but was completely struck by her passion for culture and drive to make the best cemita on the planet.


Everyday detail and menu item is given its due consideration.Even the micheladas, the Mexican beer cocktails, have a punch of hometown Oaxacan style. Gusano de maguey(the agave caterpillars) is ground up in the mix along with the common Worcestershire, salt, lime, and edgy chile piquin.It's the classic michelada turned up to eleven!So, Salud!And, let's go check out these girls.


Pal Cabron's walls are decorated with the the single "leidys". You already saw La Tetanic(Teta+Titanic),here she is with La Bronca, spicy shredded pork loin.


La Brava, is a cemita of marinated pork, La Chirris(the cherry),fine Oaxacan pork chorizo, and La Mas Cabrona(dumb blonde)is stacked with beef milanesa, head cheese, and a chingo de aguacate(a whole lotta f%$#@ing avocado,vato).


And, Las Reinas,owner Bricia Lopez with Zocalo's Dulce Vasquez on opening night.


Cemitas are popular in Los Angeles, and Angelinos, as folks all over Mexico, know to get their cemitas from genuine Poblanos(people from Puebla),but every now and then there are exceptions to the rule.Most foodies have their favorite cemitas truck, stand, or restaurant already well staked out.Mi compa, Javier Cabral and I were not completely sold on these cemitas when the place first opened, eventhough we had become close friends with the Lopez family.We thought there were some kinks to be worked out, but I had the feeling that Bricia and Fernando weren't going to rest until they had the sandwich they wanted.

I happened to have my first euphoric cemita experience at a market in Puebla this past August, which gave me a new appreciation for this regal sandwich.


Bricia had sent her baker to Puebla to study bread making before the restaurant opened, and tracked down quality, authentic ingredients, a talent that runs in the family.She even donned an apron and experimented with the bread making herself.Recently,Bricia's restless quest found her back in Puebla on a cemita reconaissance mission. Let me tell you, don't let the slender frame fool you, Bricia can put a food crawling blogger to shame by her metabolic prowess.


I was able to check in on her progress last month, after Bricia's genuine efforts to improve her cemitas, and it was obvious when the Pueblan prize arrived at our table that a transformation had occured. I was seeing the presentation and form I had experienced in Puebla. An improved sesame seed bun, offerings of quesillo(Oaxacan string cheese) or panela, chipotle or pickled red jalapeno on the side, and a tasty, thin milanesa, formed by the domestic violence of a heavy rolling pin.

The Lopez family restaurants boast the only legal quesillo in town and Cemitas y Clayudas has house made chipotles in adobo. They are served on the side just like they are in Puebla, but do indulge, it's not everyday that you get to have the real deal. The actual chile flavor is much more pronounced, and complex.


It wouldn't be proper for a Lopez to forget Oaxaca, so along with Puebla's cemitas you get the ultimate Oaxacan party platter, the clayuda. The cluyudas are smeared with asiento(pork lard), and traditionally adorned with black beans,cabbage, quesillo, queso fresco, and the Oaxacan power trio of tasajo(cured beef), cecina enchilada(chile rubbed pork), and plump Oaxacan pork chorizo.Have one, two, or heap all three on to your clayuda.


A purple corn clayuda was available on my last visit, with deep,dark corn flavors. There seems to be a surprize on every visit.

I've watched this restaurant grow up in front of my very eyes since it opened this past summer.The cemitas here are excellent, and the dedication to excellence at Cemitas y Clayudas permeates every aspect of the restaurant. It'a little bit Puebla and a little bit Oaxaca. It's a theme restaurant like you'd find in Mexico City, full of racy humor, but also a nod to Mexican-American culture.

The spirit of Pal Cabron is plastered on the walls and in the teasing bathroom characters, but beind the counter and at the cemita station is a serious restaurant committed to bringing authentic Mexican food to Los Angeles.


Cemitas y Clayudas Pal Cabron
2560 East Gage Avenue
Huntington Park, CA 90255
323 277 9899

Sam Adams,Utopias:Extreme Pleasure, 2000 Years In The Making

Bert Boyce has been the master brewer at Samuel Adams for the past two years, and seems rather young and at ease for someone who's worked at four different breweries and two wineries before Sam Adams.He made it all sound so easy, but what they're doing these days at Sam Adams is serious business.I attended a blogger event at Animal on November 17th to unveil the Samuel Adams Utopias, at 27% ABV, the strongest beer in the world.While this is a tremendous technical achievement not lost on me, at all, the end result is pure deliciousness without need for explanation.


Utopias are a beer unlike any you've ever tasted. Many commented that it reminded them of a sherry or a brandy, but it has its own signature flavor.

Utopias are aged in various casks:sherry, port, muscatel,bourbon and scotch.Bert couldn't reveal all of their secrets, but he did share some of the trials that led to sleepless nights to produce this fine beer. The yeasts are fed and then die in regular beer making process, but instead of feeding them all at once, they are given a ration of food and oxygen to keep the yeasts alive to achieve the 27% ABV. Bert described the Utopias result as a product of perfect fermentation.

In the glass, it's a marriage of malts, wood, and sweet essence, a "spirited" expression of beer.


I came late from another event and walked into a hushed crowd at Animal, while Bert talked about beer making and Samuel Adam's selection of beers.

Bert and the Animal staff got me up to speed, and although I missed the food pairings, the beer selections from the seasonal brews to Utopias was impressive.


The Triple Bock, a predecessor to Utopias, and a component, was another revelation. It's maple syrup, chocolate, and soy sauce notes with lush mouthfeel makes a brilliant apertif.


Coming as the rest were going I made short order fo the seasonal beers available to taste. Sam Adam's Coastal Wheat(wheat ale) was made for summer. Its crisp, refreshing manner and sharp lemon peel flavor really hot the spot in this extended summer weather. This is the kind of every day drinker I plan to stock up on in the Spring. Ceviche and other Mexican seafoods would pair nicely with the Coastal Wheat.


I also sample the famous Boston lager, no surprise here, as I've been drinking this since my early 20's. It tastes as great as ever, one of the most balanced beers I've ever known. The perfect beer for sitting at the bar and checking out some Blues or Soul.

The Cranberry Lambic(lambic),Old Fezziweg(ale), and Holiday Porter(porter) are all well crafted beers. All of the beers at Sam Adams are brewed with greatness in mind, and there is something here for all palates.

Utopias are available in a limited release every two years. You can find them at your local Bevmo's.

This beer is an achievement rooted in Revolutionary ideals, the culmination of 2000 years of brewing technology and artisanship.With Bert Boyce as master brewer, Samuel Adams promises to remain a formidable producer for years to come. This is the holiday gift you're going to want to get for yourself this year.

I'd like to thank Tina Clabber form Devries PR for the invitation to this event, and the fine staff at Animal.

More on Samuel Adams

Antojitos de la Abuelita:Straight Outta Neza

You may have noticed the food trailer parked on Vineland in North Hollywood in the last couple of months or so.This part of Vineland lies a few blocks south of Victory Bl., more related to the sketchy credit car dealerships that never seem to be open, and shoddy looking automotive enterprises of the the area surrounding the west side of the Burbank Airport.

In a mini strip mall across from buzzing power lines are three shops, a sign store, a party supply store, and a beauty salon. The owners, a family from Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl(fasting coyote in the nahautl language), a city in the state of Mexico, just outside Mexico City.It's referred to by locals simply as Ciudad Neza.

Neza has a bad reputation in the news, but its reputation of rampant crime is sensationalized much in the same way parts of East Los Angeles and South Central are portrayed. But, saying you're from Neza carries the same sense of pride that an Angelino might have coming from Compton or South Gate.These are great communities that have their challenges, but those who make it may feel an extra sense of accomplishment.

Antojitos de la Abuelita is run by a husband and wife team, along with family members, including la abuelita. They do the cuisine of Mexico City, so many seem to be popping up in recent years, but there's something else going on here.


They set up a tent and tables in the parking lot of their businesses providing the type of weekend mobile service you find in Mexico City. An outdoor sit down food truck, or rather a trailer.Their menu has the usual DF style snacks:pambazos, huaraches, and sopes, but their menu also includes other genuine DF street food items that make this restaurant a contender for the best DF style restaurant in town.

They offer different aguas frescas each day, chilled in jars at the condiment table.Horchata, jamaica, tamarindo, watermelon, or whatever is fresh that day.


Their tacos are excellent even though they are overshadowed by other menu offerings. The cooking of meats here are deft in flavor and texture. On weekends they do barbacoa cooked in maguey spines, moist and elegant flavors of mutton. You can get it with consome, but the taco by itself is a stand alone food.

The cilantro and onions cut fresh to your order by the three women working in the kitchen, tangy tomatillo salsa pairs brilliantly with gamey mutton.


The guajillo chile dipped and fried roll stuffed with chorizo and potatoes known as the pambazo is one of the best in the city.It's not quite the edgy version done by Nina's from Breed St., but neither does it shy away from the messy street food sandwich that it is.


This is also another kitchen within a kitchen of street soups. They serve menudo, which is mostly eaten from street stands on benches in Mexico, red pozole, and caldo de gallina.

All soups are made from scratch and from quality ingredients.The pozole has nice flavor, and can be had with chicken, pork,or both. This was the least interesting of the three, only because it was a little too salty, but still a solid pozole.


The real stars here are the menudo and caldo de gallina(hen soup).The menudo comes with a nice pata(foot), a prized item for the menudo lover.


This is a sublime menudo served in a genuine curbside setting. On some days they hang some pinatas from the party supplies store for additional ambiance.

Caldo de gallina the most common soup served all over Mexico City, in fondas, street stands, moslty by specialists. This is a rarely served soup in LA, which is odd considering the increasing number of DF style establishments.


But of course, this place is called Antojitos de la Abuelita, and the antojitos are worth the trip alone. This is where most DF, of Chilango restaurants start and end here in town.

Typical guisados(stews or fillings)are delivered in the grilled quesadillas, huitlacoche(corn smut), flor de calabaza(squash blossom)with cheese,mushrooms with cheese. The huitlacoche here is outstanding.


Huaraches, the large sandal shaped sopes(masa boats) come with traditional asada, or lengua. These are among the best in town, I like the black bean filling of the huaraches at Don Huarache, but the meat is superior here at Antojitos. All meats are tender, juicy, and flavorful.


Tlayudas, the so called Oaxacan pizzas found at our many Oaxacan restaurants in LA, are brought to a new sensation at this restaurant. I've always found the meats to be less than delicate.The cecina, thin chile marinated pork leg, and tasajo, salted beef round, are supposed to be supple and full flavored. The chubby Oaxacan pork chorizo is sometimes quite ordinary,pourly sourced by uninspired owners.

Here at Antojitos del la Abuela you will find arguably the most satisfying tlayuda, also spelled clayuda, in Los Angeles. The cecina, tasajo, and chorizo are delicious, their presence are revelatory as flvor components rather than filler.These are big enough to share, so grab one to go and pick up a six-pack of chelas(beers)for the perfect party snack.


The family isn't comfortable with pictures, they are very quiet and pleasant,but were concerned about why I was taking pictures. I had to get most of these items to go and photograph them at home or in my car, but this place is too good to keep a secret.

All their food is made to order, three reserved women with serious execution assembling street food master works.

This is the most serious Mexican kitchen in the Valley, and one of the deepest trucks in LA.

Antojitos de la Abuelita
6135 Vineland Ave.(parked in front of Party Supply)
North Hollywood, CA
Wednesdays through Friday around 5PM 'til 9PM
Saturdays and Sundays 8AM to 10PM
barbacoa, caldo de gallina, menudo,and pozole are weekends only.

Carnaval La Paz,Feb. 19-24, 2009: Chocolatas,Parrot fish, and the Malecon

Between the obnoxious Cabo San Lucas and the classic Mexican beach town of Loreto lies La Paz in Southern Baja California.

La Paz boasts a healthy local economy fueled by eco-tourism, fishing, silver mining, agriculture, and pearls.Although much larger than Cabo, it retains a local character but is just as tourist friendly. As a UNESCO World Heritage Bio-Reserves site it is a paradise for scuba diving, snorkeling, and kayaking.

The malecon(sea walk)is a beautiful attraction, and the city center has many colonial buildings typical of Southern Baja.


Each year La Paz hosts one of the 6 Carnaval celebrations held in Mexico. This year it was held from the 19th through the 24th of February.


The Carnaval celebration in La Paz is sort of a mix of the two largest in the world, Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans' Mardi Gras respectively. A little parading, and imbibing next to the Sea of Cortez. It all takes place on the malecon.

There are many stages across the span of the malecon featuring traditional Mexican styles of music like banda and norteña.


During the day families walk the malecon playing games, eating delicious foods to fatten up before the fasting on Ash Wednesday.


I was in town for a show, and for me that means taking in some regional food and culture.

El Dorado is a seafood restaurant along the malecon exhibiting the freshest local catch.


The restaurant has a palapa(thatch roof)inside and a comfortable setting overlooking the sea. Not a bad place to enjoy the flavors of La Paz.


La Paz and nearby Loreto are where you will find the finest chocolata clams, named for the color of their shells.The flavor and texture of these clams will turn the staunchest oyster snob into a believer. You can get these throughout Baja, but in La Paz they must be included in your eating agenda.


Bright orange,tan, and white flesh begin to writhe as you squirt a bit of lime. The dozen chocolatas I had were still alive when they were shucked. It doesn't get fresher than that. These should be enjoyed au natural, with a drop of lime and dab of hot sauce.


Pescado relleno is done a thousand different ways, but El Dorado's stuffed fish is a whole other level. Local shrimp and vegetables are stuffed between two filets of locally caught parrot fish, wrapped in bacon, and smothered in a bechamel mushroom sauce.The combination of flavors will bring tears of joy.


Every bite is layered in opulence, but never too heavy.El Dorado may look like every other restaurant on the malecon, but it is far from routine.


After my show I headed down to catch the end of the parade and have a late night snack. This is when all the cocktail stands and food stalls fire up. Have one of the racy cocktails customary at all fairs and festivals:mamada(blow job),semen de burro(bull's semen), or the orgasmo(orgasm).For some reason "Sex on the Beach" is not translated, must be the Cabo/Cancun syndrome.


With drink in hand it's time to pick a stall for noshing. Wherever you choose, the people watching from your table on the malecon is worthwhile, the cowboys, groups of beautiful women, and post-Carnaval leftovers all for the price of a couple of tacos.


You will mostly find typical antojitos(little whims)at these events. Sopes, tacos, tortas, carnes, enchiladas, and even some regional items.


On this evening I chose a gringa. A gringa is a large flour tortilla wrapped around al pastor and cheese,the al pastor freshly cut from a spit. These are probably the inspiration for the American style quesadilla with meat.The difference here is the homemade tortilla from local wheat, a nice melting cheese, and savory al pastor from pure pork loin.A nice heavy bite of juicy pork with refried beans and salad before your day of fasting is a rewarding decision.



Carnaval in La Paz is a nice alternative to some of the bigger events held around the world. Great local seafood, music, a parade, and a party all day and night for the whole family.

The beautiful weather, pristine waters, scub diving, fishing, and relaxing on the Sea of Cortez add to the value of this destination in southern Baja where the dessert meets the sea.